Perspectives on Tea Drinking in the Tang Dynasty
The canal system established by the Emperor of the Sui Dynasty played a crucial role in transportation during the Tang Dynasty. Among the Tang era's travelers, Feng Yin stood out for his penchant for exploration and documentation. His extensive collection of notes, known as “Feng Shi Wen Jian Lu” (The Records of Feng's Observations), provided valuable insights into the landscapes and cultures of his time.
By/ Liu, Han-Chieh, founder of Chun Shui Tea Group
During the illustrious Tang Dynasty, often hailed as China's golden age, numerous cultural advancements came to fruition. One such transformation occurred with the introduction and spread of tea throughout the empire. While tea had already made inroads from Sichuan to Shaanxi and Henan during the Wei and Jin Dynasties, establishing the northern tea-producing regions, its influence expanded even further during the Tang Dynasty. Tea production areas extended from the Yangtze River Basin and Huai River Basin to Fujian. The steaming and processing methods for tea leaves gradually matured. The canal system initiated by the previous Sui Dynasty played a vital role in facilitating trade during the Tang Dynasty. One Tang individual, named Feng Yin, was fond of traveling and documenting his observations. His collection of notes was titled “Feng Shi Wen Jian Lu” (The Records of Feng's Observations). He wrote: “From Zouqi (Shandong) and Cangdi (Hebei) to the capital city (Chang'an), there are many shops selling tea. Regardless of one's status, people buy tea by paying money and then drinking it. Tea arrives from the Jianghuai region, transported by boats and carts, and is piled up in large quantities wherever it goes, with a wide variety of colors”.
The consumption of tea underwent a significant transformation during this period, shifting from being a beverage mainly enjoyed by aristocrats and nobles to becoming popular among common people. This era is often referred to as the era of sencha, where tea was brewed in cauldrons and consumed in celadon bowls (greenware). Many people developed a habit of flavoring and adding ingredients to their tea.
The widespread popularity of tea during this time marked an unprecedented development in its history, but the true excitement lay in the changes that accompanied its spread. One of the key figures driving change was Mr. Lu Yu. Despite his unattractive appearance and stutter, Lu Yu possessed remarkable knowledge and skills. He authored the “Classic of Tea” (茶經), a comprehensive work spanning over seven thousand characters that delved into tea's origins, distribution, production, consumption, and utensils. The “Classic of Tea” garnered eager circulation and imitation during the Tang Dynasty, with some attempting to present their own versions before Lu Yu publicly revealed his work. With the enthusiastic support of many, tea, once regarded as a mundane beverage, transformed into an art form, leading to the widespread practice of the Way of Tea.
According to records, the process of the tea ceremony is as follows:
1. Roast the tea cake made from tender buds over charcoal until it emits a slight fragrance.
2. Pay attention to the source of water, whether it's from mountain springs, rivers, or wells.
3. Heat the charcoal until it forms fish eyes and emits a faint buzzing sound, indicating it's ready for boiling.
4. Add a small amount of salt for seasoning.
5. Grind the roasted tea cake into powder.
6. When the second boil occurs and the pearls of bubbles are heard, scoop out a ladle of water.
7. Use bamboo chopsticks to create a vortex in the boiling water.
8. Add the tea powder.
9. Pour in the ladled water to stop the boiling.
10. Divide the one liter of water into five bowls.
This method of tea consumption marked a significant departure from previous practices. Prohibitions were placed on additives that shouldn't be included, while water quality and temperature were meticulously specified. Regulations were also introduced regarding the quantity of tea to be consumed. Both nobles and commoners found this system intriguing and rational. Literary figures such as Bai, Ju-Yi, Liu, Yu-Xi, Yan, Zhen-Qing, and Wei, Ying-Wu all enthusiastically embraced these changes, with Lu Tong and Feng Yin serving as witnesses to this cultural shift. The capital city of Chang'an, during the Tang Dynasty, buzzed with excitement as everyone reveled in the pleasures of tea.
Soon after, a monk named Jiao-Ran emerged on the scene, bringing with him not only proficiency in Zen but also a unique perspective on tea drinking. He recognized the value of the prevailing method of tea consumption but believed it could be elevated further. Jiao-Ran proposed incorporating elements such as music, incense, and flowers to enrich the tea-drinking experience. Furthermore, he advocated for abstaining from worldly discussions during tea sessions and instead encouraged reciting poetry classics. His influence extended to persuading fellow monks to forsake alcohol in favor of tea, promoting it as a healthier alternative.
Lu Yu's writings on tea had already caused a stir, but Jiaoran's innovative ideas ignited even greater excitement. Before long, emissaries from Japan, including a monk named Saichō, arrived. Despite struggling with memorizing scriptures, Saichō showed a remarkable aptitude for learning about tea. He brought tea seeds back to Japan and presented them to Emperor Saga, earning a significant reward for his efforts. Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty also took notice of the growing importance of tea. Faced with the dilemma of imposing new taxes, he seized the opportunity to enact tea taxation laws, consisting of twelve articles. In a “bold” move, he declared that tea production would be nationalized, requiring citizens to purchase tea exclusively from the government and forbidding unauthorized production and sales. Furthermore, there was a renowned Zen master of that era who chose to seclude himself in the wilderness far from the city — Master Baizhang Huanhai. He achieved enlightenment through tea and not only required his thousands of disciples to recite scriptures and drink tea in the morning, perform rituals and drink tea at noon, and engage in meditation sessions and drink tea in the evening, but also meticulously documented rules for conduct, known as the “Bai Zhang Code of Conduct” (百丈清規). Everyone was expected to adhere to these rules, even during funerals, which were conducted according to tea etiquette. It's truly astonishing, isn't it? Not only are we amazed, but even the contemporary traveler, Mr. Feng Yin, upon returning to Chang'an after a period of absence, expressed his surprise in these words: “The Chronicles of Feng (封氏聞見錄): Ancient people also drank tea, but not to the excessive extent of modern times. Spending day and night indulging in it has almost become a custom. Beginning from the central region and spreading to the border areas, they would travel back and forth to the court, driving their fine horses. They would trade tea in the market and return home. It is truly remarkable”.
Indeed, it's not just Feng Yin who would feel amazed. This entire spectacle, filled with crescendos and reverberating aftermaths, would have left anyone astounded. If Feng Yin were alive today, he would undoubtedly be clapping his hands with glee and stroking his beard in sheer delight.
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EP18. The Tang Dynasty Part I [Tea Doctor Shares Everything About Tea] When Drinking Tea Became Orderly and Revered, Could Tea Be Exchanged for Something Else? - Tang Dynasty Feat. Liu, Han-Chieh (Gan Hou), CEO of Chun Shui Tea Group
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EP20. The Tang Dynasty Part II [Tea Doctor Shares Everything About Tea] In Tibet, Where Not a Blade of Grass Grows, Yet Tea Is Indispensable, Many Everyday Practices Related to Tea Originated from That Era - Tang Dynasty. Feat. Liu, Han-Chieh (Gan Hou), CEO of Chun Shui Tea Group
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